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 1 
 on: Today at 06:21:58 AM 
Started by chuckb37 - Last post by chuckb37
So of note, I drove the car to work this morning. Sounded perfect on startup but sounded like hell by the time I got to work. I shut the car off and used the clear codes function in VCDS (didn't have any codes). I immediately started it and it idled perfect. So because of the p2198 code I'm popping after about 20 miles I think I have a vacuum leak of some sorts but I have no idea why clearing nonexistent codes quiets the engine. I'm a bit ignorant on fuel trim values but doing this resets them right? 

 2 
 on: Yesterday at 10:17:55 PM 
Started by Realdeal - Last post by justincredible
I recently purchased a 2008 Audi S6 with 130k miles on it. The body and interior is very clean and it was a well kept car. The car came with the normal troubles that everyone complains about, misfires and an oil leak on the passenger side which I have to figure out where that is coming from. If anyone has an idea I'm open to listing and looking into.  I am currently in the process of getting the manifold off to see what lies beneath. I removed the coils and what a shock 08/08 they read. So they are the original coils that came with the car. Once I get through updating and cleaning the front end I'm going to install all LW Rotors, JHM Tune, JHM Cat-back Exhaust and a new fuel filter because who knows when that was replaced if ever. I attached a few pictures of some high quality parts connections that I found. A zip tie and electrical tape connecting a fluid pipe.

On order waiting arrival.

1. New Coils
2. New Spark plugs
3. LW Pulley
4. JHM Intake Spacers
5. New Alternator Belt
6. SAI Block Off
7. KN&N Air Filters


That's a strong list. It might not be a bad idea to put valve cover gaskets on that list.  But once you get the intake off you should be able to tell a lot more.

If your doing the initinal work on the car I would pull the front end off. If you want to get a better idea on where the leak is on the one side your going to want that front end off.  to be able to really look at the motor better.

Also to back up what GRS6 said. I would strongly suggest looking into injectors

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 07:21:08 PM 
Started by eng92 - Last post by eng92
After being cooked for the last twelve years in the valley of the engine, all of my injector connector housings had become so brittle that I had them all held in place with zip-ties.

Replacement harnesses are ridiculously expensive so I decided to go ahead and just replace all of the connector housings.

Here is a shot of one of each of the types that can be found on the two injector harnesses. 




Since I bought the car about three years ago, I have always had intermittent issues with the signal from the HP fuel sensor.  Every once and a while, the engine would stutter for a split second.

The previous owner must have had the same complaint as I found a single wire outside of the factory loom going directly from the ecu connector to a second HP fuel sensor connector.  The original connector was left attached to the factory harness but left disconnected in the valley.  The person who did the wiring did a good job.  All of the wires were terminated properly and the wire splices were tidy and sealed correctly.  Initially, it did not make sense to me why I was still having this issue with the new signal wire run.  Then I looked at the two wires for the sensor power supply and ground wire connections.  The original two wires were left in the factory loom going from the black T14i connector back to the ecu.  My guess is that when the tech was troubleshooting, they confirmed that the sensor power supply voltage and ground were good and all that needed to be replaced was the signal wire.


I did not like the look of this wire outside of the factory harness so I decided to replace the T14i connector.  The tabs to release the secondary terminal lock were so brittle, they snapped off when I tried to release it so I ended up cutting the shroud off with a Dremel.  When I exposed the male terminal pins, this is what I found.  The three corroded terminal pins towards the bottom of the picture are 11, 12 & 13 which are the three for the HP fuel pressure sensor.  Pin 13 is the most corroded one which just happens to be for the 5V sensor power supply.   I am relatively confident that this has been the cause of my random stuttering.




Moving along, I pulled three new wires through the injector harness and spliced on the female terminal pigtails from the connector that was previously replaced.  I spliced some new 1.5mm MT2 male terminal pigtails onto the other end to replace the corroded ones




With a little bit of harness tape, it should be almost as good as new at a fraction of the price.




Here is a shot of the harnesses installed in the valley before the intake goes back on.



 4 
 on: Yesterday at 07:13:56 PM 
Started by eng92 - Last post by eng92
Keep up the great work eng92! Can't wait tonsee everything squeaky clean when you're done

Exceptional work! Thanks again for documenting.

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys.  It will certainly be nice to get this completed and the vehicle back on the road

 5 
 on: Yesterday at 05:24:59 PM 
Started by Realdeal - Last post by Realdeal
I was going to remove them and decide to get new ones or have these ones cleaned. Thanks for the advise.

 6 
 on: Yesterday at 04:46:55 PM 
Started by Realdeal - Last post by GRS6
I recently purchased a 2008 Audi S6 with 130k miles on it. The body and interior is very clean and it was a well kept car. The car came with the normal troubles that everyone complains about, misfires and an oil leak on the passenger side which I have to figure out where that is coming from. If anyone has an idea I'm open to listing and looking into.  I am currently in the process of getting the manifold off to see what lies beneath. I removed the coils and what a shock 08/08 they read. So they are the original coils that came with the car. Once I get through updating and cleaning the front end I'm going to install all LW Rotors, JHM Tune, JHM Cat-back Exhaust and a new fuel filter because who knows when that was replaced if ever. I attached a few pictures of some high quality parts connections that I found. A zip tie and electrical tape connecting a fluid pipe.

On order waiting arrival.

1. New Coils
2. New Spark plugs
3. LW Pulley
4. JHM Intake Spacers
5. New Alternator Belt
6. SAI Block Off
7. KN&N Air Filters

Hi and welcome! Iíd look into new injectors too (or a cleaning at the least). If everything is original, then thereís no doubt itís not going to be running very pristine.

 7 
 on: Yesterday at 03:59:59 PM 
Started by Realdeal - Last post by Realdeal
I recently purchased a 2008 Audi S6 with 130k miles on it. The body and interior is very clean and it was a well kept car. The car came with the normal troubles that everyone complains about, misfires and an oil leak on the passenger side which I have to figure out where that is coming from. If anyone has an idea I'm open to listing and looking into.  I am currently in the process of getting the manifold off to see what lies beneath. I removed the coils and what a shock 08/08 they read. So they are the original coils that came with the car. Once I get through updating and cleaning the front end I'm going to install all LW Rotors, JHM Tune, JHM Cat-back Exhaust and a new fuel filter because who knows when that was replaced if ever. I attached a few pictures of some high quality parts connections that I found. A zip tie and electrical tape connecting a fluid pipe.

On order waiting arrival.

1. New Coils
2. New Spark plugs
3. LW Pulley
4. JHM Intake Spacers
5. New Alternator Belt
6. SAI Block Off
7. KN&N Air Filters

 8 
 on: Yesterday at 02:27:33 PM 
Started by sakimano - Last post by bigserve134
Tesla still struggling with their electronics, even on the model 3s

https://www.cnn.com/2019/02/21/tech/consumer-reports-tesla-model-3/index.html

 9 
 on: Yesterday at 02:03:27 PM 
Started by SIX6SIX - Last post by smores1
Thanks for this info!

I have a faulty control module on the high speed fan that drains the battery down. Have the car parked and the fan unplugged...you have had no issues with the swap?

ECS just quoted $475 for that replacement part and the fan assembly at Audi is $1300 CDN...If I can swap the part then it would be a savings!



P0480 - Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit

Car was running cold randomly once every day or 2. Shop suggested replacing the entire fan unit because the module in the S6 is built in. JimmyBones to the rescue again. He did the research and found that part# 8E0959501AG is a direct swap so I ordered the part from ECS. Now just patiently waiting for date/time for install.

To all the C6 S6 owners going through maintencae issues, I say:

Keep Hope Alive

(lol)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 10 
 on: Yesterday at 10:05:01 AM 
Started by Korndog101 - Last post by murphenur
worst still was the injectors were replaced by the dealer 2 years ago for $10k.

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