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 1 
 on: Yesterday at 07:04:42 PM 
Started by sakimano - Last post by westwest888
Just walked a P3D from highway speeds, car is slow, shit on it with my 11 year old caveman power station gas guzzler, electric has a long way to go.

Top Gear seems to disagree with you. Model 3 destroyed every car in the half mile, including C63S.

https://www.teslarati.com/tesla-model-3-top-gear-track-review-video/

The Tesla modding has not begun yet. Tesla has not built a ground up performance car yet. This is just fitting 2 motors to a basic sedan body. Change the gear ratio from 7.5:1 fixed to something else and you probably could run 10 second quarter miles. The new roadster will run 7 second quarter miles.

 2 
 on: Yesterday at 08:28:12 AM 
Started by PaladinRS4 - Last post by compugeek5150
you can always buy my S6 and drive to Houston from OKC Cheesy

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 08:22:49 AM 
Started by GRS6 - Last post by GRS6
If anyone wants to upgrade their S6, then check out my thread here. Iíve been needing to get rid of these wheels and Iím selling them quite discounted from when I got them. Very gently used! Smiley

 4 
 on: June 24, 2019, 08:44:12 PM 
Started by vtgt - Last post by justincredible
Well to put it simply. Your venting to atmosphere so only when pressure in the crank case is enough do you see any venting.

The PCV system is self is SUCKING air out of the crank case. BIG DIFFERENCE and even bigger results.

If you have too much negative pressure in the crank case yes that could encourage blow by but since the vac is equal to the intake of the air that is negated.

If there is a good amount of oil in the intake then by default the oil separator isn't  working efficiently and thus the PCV system. Also if you unplugged the PCV system and resolved your issues you just proved it was broken in the first place. So if the part was replaced a week ago or a year ago its not working properly.

This gets me off on a tangent on shops getting cheap replacement parts and not the better made OEM or close to oem  units.

And sure you can unplug lots of stuff and have lots of stuff not hooked up but that doesn't make it right or the correct way to do things. It also doesn't mean you're not causing other issues.

With that being said and that is just the word of reason and caution. HELL  if your getting workable results great. Just report all the good and bad because if you were getting 300ml of oil in the intake with a non working oil separator your still going to get that oil its just going to be coming out the hose or other pipes you have hooked up.

As you said. The internet is full of BS bullshitters and just endless shit when you read some forums. I would strongly suggest you start a thread on this. I think its a great idea. The only thing I would say is don't be that guy... and by that I mean if this ends up being the worst idea ever and works like shit... just say so. SHOW ALL THE GOOD AND>>> THE BAD...

This forum is small but we have been lucky. We have kicked out or ran out all of the ultra bullshitters. Its amazing how full of it some guys were. So if its good info or good info on something bad. Please post it.

 5 
 on: June 24, 2019, 07:33:18 PM 
Started by GRS6 - Last post by GRS6
Iíve now acquired an Audi R8 RS style flat bottom wheel, but it doesnít have paddle shifters. If anyoneís interested, I now have the S-line (with paddle shifters) and this R8 wheel.

$300 for S-line
$425 for R8

UPDATED PRICING!

 6 
 on: June 24, 2019, 06:57:21 PM 
Started by JimmyBones - Last post by milk
Throw the old throw-out bearing away. Wipe off the input shaft sleeve with a rag/towel. Lube the input shaft sleeve with clutch grease. Install the new throw-out bearing on the input shaft sleeve and connect it to the shift fork. There are two little plastic retaining tabs that click onto the shift fork. Double check that the throw-out bearing is attached and can move freely by pulling the shift fork towards you and then pushing it back till it stops a few times.

ElsaWin manual states:
Clean input shaft splines and (in case of used clutch plates) clean hub splines, remove corrosion and apply only a very thin coating of lubricant -G 000 100- on splines. Do not lubricate guide sleeve.

What is it? I put a little clutch grease on the input shaft sleeve per the note in this DIY and put the transmission back on but now I'm wondering if I need to pull it off, clean the guide sleeve, and then reinstall transmission. New fw, clutch, pp, and release bearing were installed.

 7 
 on: June 24, 2019, 08:32:31 AM 
Started by vtgt - Last post by Kimovitzh
That is the oil separator and the PCV unit. Its a terrible idea to just leave it open. Its the PCV that system keeps the crank case pressure down and helps keep carbon more at bay.


With that in mind wouldn't negative pressure in the crankcase then encourage blow-by?
Also, 2 x 22mm pipes ensure that there is no pressure.

On some cars without the oil separator maybe its not as impactful but since the V10 has a long history of blowing out gaskets venting to atmosphere wouldn't be the greatest idea. Also remember that on the closed ring gaps you need to have vac pulled out to keep the rings sealed. So for multiple reasons it would be a terrible idea to not have the system  hooked up.


Can you elaborate what part you mean when you say "the closed ring gaps", what part do you refer to?

Lastly if you know that unhooking and blocking off the oil separator and PCV unit stops any misfires why wouldn't you just replace the unit. In theory you basically just proved its bad.


A working PCV-system is still letting a lot of oil (relatively) in to the intake manifold, and then there is the longlivity of the PCV in it self.
The previous owner had it replaced a year ago at Audi in germany and already it is broken again. When I removed the manifold to clean the valves, 250-300ml of oil was sitting in the manifold, only way it can get there is from the PCV (also the water cooled pipe from the PCV to the manifold was full of it).

As I said before, my A3 with free venting crank had no problems at 335.000km, that's 160.000km, over 7 years, with no mechanical failure and no engine parts replaced (The EGR was deleted as well).
I've seen multiple cars run fine for years with a free venting crank, from 3-cylinder to V8's, and not just old v8's Wink.


If you read around the internet, and that's a bad start to begin with, many people has the same concerns as you.
And equally the other way around. And I get that people are concerned.


Thanks for the welcoming!
I'll be the ignorant guinea pig with this controversial fix, maybe start my own topic with interval reports, huh?  Smiley

 8 
 on: June 23, 2019, 08:11:28 PM 
Started by Greg5OH - Last post by justincredible
To close this thread: It looks like when I pushed the prawl back in, I did not push it all the way back into its P position. Then when I pushed the ball/sociket connection of the cable on, and finally bolted it to the trans housing, it was just enough to move it over into the N position on the trans while still being in the P position on the lever. Thus when moving it to S mode, it pushed the cable too far forward, falling off the detent.

Great follow up. Thanks for giving some info. I was perplexed on this.

 9 
 on: June 23, 2019, 08:10:25 PM 
Started by JimmyBones - Last post by justincredible
The manual states in several places to apply copper lubricant to the tip of the slave cylinder plunger. I don't see this noted in any of the DIYs on the interweb. What do people usually do here? Not worry about it and just try to get the darn thing in there with white lithium grease or are people doing this and it's just hush hush or ?


Team white lithium here. Well that and a large list of swear words.

 10 
 on: June 23, 2019, 08:09:32 PM 
Started by Greg5OH - Last post by justincredible
Which channel number do I need to be looking at to see B1 and B2 short term fuel trims?

Under Engine (module 1) - group 33 is short term fuel trims for banks 1 & 2 (cyls 1-5)
fields:
1 bank 1 - (cyls 1-3)    lambda control %
2 bank 1 - (cyls 1-3)    sensor voltage
3 bank 2 - (cyls 4 & 5) lambda control %
4 bank 2 - (cyls 4 & 5) sensor voltage

Under Engine II (module 11) - group 33 is  short term fuel trims for banks 3 & 4 (cyls 6-10)
fields:
1 bank 3 - (cyls 6-8)     lambda control %
2 bank 3 - (cyls 6-8)     sensor voltage
3 bank 4 - (cyls 9 & 10) lambda control %
4 bank 4 - (cyls 9 & 10) sensor voltage

Your LTFTs are in group 32


Helpful post. Might be a good idea to make a stand alone post on something like this. Lots of questions about fuel trims logging blocks and such.

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