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 1 
 on: Yesterday at 05:55:31 PM 
Started by eddiedellz - Last post by eddiedellz
Thanks I did fix it I ran the ring brake diag and found a bad bluetooth module.

The parking brake warning was a loose connection on the battery terminal block.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 2 
 on: Yesterday at 04:02:32 PM 
Started by eddiedellz - Last post by CLSPilot
I had that problem about 2 months ago. Have you spilled any liquids around there where the buttons are? It's a slight irritation, but you're gonna have to pull the center console out. Pull the MMI unit and pull the parking brake lever. The lever is bad. Buy a cheap ebay one for like $20. I did. That's literally all that is wrong with your parking brake. It's that lever. As for the MMI, it runs on a fiber optic loop. If there is a bad module or a broken optic cable, it will shut down. BUT! Since you mentioned the parking brake, most likely I believe you spilled something. If you did, and it was soda or coffee, then one of your MMI buttons may be sticking. If two buttons are pushing at the same time, it will shut down. This is why I suggested pulling it. Take it apart and clean the buttons real good. I ended up taking my motherboard out, throwing all the buttons and all in the dishwasher and getting another MMI motherboard. If you don't want to take the MMI button console thing apart, you can try to pour alcohol down into the buttons. But make sure the car is off and MMI is off. Alcohol is good because it dissolves sticky stuff and evaporates quickly. And it won't corrode electrical contacts. Do not use water! Anyway, just my .2 cents. I had both go out at the same time. That was my issue. If you do all of that and the MMI still cuts out, you probably have a bad module somewhere. Check the trunk, left side. Those modules all hook into the MOST loop. So does the Bluetooth module but that's in the passenger side floor area somewhere. Best way to check what module is bad, get a MOST loop bypass harness. They are cheap. eBay has for $10. Even dealer has them. Disconnect one module and plug the bypass harness into the optic cable(not module). If MMI stays on, then that module you unhooked was bad. But keep going until you find the bad module. If you find a bad module and don't need that module(Sirius XM radio, for example), then just leave the bypass loop in and enjoy. If it's the amplifier, then you might wanna get it fixed. You won't have sound until you do if you bypass that.

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 03:50:29 PM 
Started by jonathanholik - Last post by CLSPilot
Yao

 4 
 on: Yesterday at 03:50:06 PM 
Started by CLSPilot - Last post by CLSPilot
Lol yea I tried to open it last night. It would not come apart. I banged it with a flat head a little but didn't want to mess anything up so I gave up and put the screws all back in. So pouring simple green in there should work? I'll do it tomorrow! Thanks for the tip!

 5 
 on: Yesterday at 11:29:46 AM 
Started by jonathanholik - Last post by compugeek5150
ohai

 6 
 on: Yesterday at 11:29:28 AM 
Started by Sgt. Schultz - Last post by compugeek5150
I'd be tempted to sell mine to you Justin for $11k - leaving the new intake and JHM Exhaust.  I don't drive as much now that I'm working at home and might trade it in - if I trade it, the exhaust and gold wrapped mani+phenolic spacers will go up for sale here (the broken stock IM and exhaust will go back on).

 7 
 on: October 15, 2018, 06:12:20 PM 
Started by CLSPilot - Last post by neil_cb125t
Hey Justin, or anyone else who might know. I took pics of the inside of the manifold and it all looks good, I think. I don't know how to attach pics here but I have pics. All flaps seem to be there. But, it does look pretty nasty in there. Is it advisable to open up the manifold to clean it out? Or is it asking for problems later on down the line? I can reseal it with some permatex high heat copper gasket stuff. It's like rtv. But I don't know if I will be doing more bad than good by trying to open it for a cleaning. Anyone have any input?

Opening the manifold up can be quiet a pain. More so putting it back together!
Justin posted up a while back that when it removes you can use a basic style of cleaner - spray it in let it soak and then hose out. He said simple green which is a natural based degreaser. Of course you want it to be safe on plastics. Let her dry before reinstalling

 8 
 on: October 15, 2018, 07:58:42 AM 
Started by eddiedellz - Last post by murphenur
onlinetires.com is actually cheaper than tires-easy.com

Running Kumho V12's at the moment, I had em on the Genesis and it did well with em.  Not so well on this car - not sure if it's the weight difference or what, but didn't get the mileage out of them I was expecting.

problem I had with onlinetires.com is sometimes they don't actually have them in stock.  Then they call you and offer you another tire size or different tire at a higher price.  Happened twice to me.

Never had an issue with stock at Tires Easy.

 9 
 on: October 15, 2018, 04:12:36 AM 
Started by spaceme1 - Last post by spaceme1
Quick update.

No more oil leak!  Bottom of engine and the belly pan are both dry.  Hopefully, it will stay this way for a long time.

 10 
 on: October 14, 2018, 06:12:11 PM 
Started by CLSPilot - Last post by CLSPilot
Hey Justin, or anyone else who might know. I took pics of the inside of the manifold and it all looks good, I think. I don't know how to attach pics here but I have pics. All flaps seem to be there. But, it does look pretty nasty in there. Is it advisable to open up the manifold to clean it out? Or is it asking for problems later on down the line? I can reseal it with some permatex high heat copper gasket stuff. It's like rtv. But I don't know if I will be doing more bad than good by trying to open it for a cleaning. Anyone have any input?

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