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 on: Today at 04:32:16 AM 
Started by donk_316 - Last post by justincredible

Aftermarket wise I don't think your going to get much thinner head gasket wise not enough to really bump compression.

There is some fun stuff available

Your fighting low production numbers with the V10s its thousands not even tens of thousands over the years that they were made. So its a low production car. On top of that an expensive car that is just now in the hands of owners who are getting into modding them

So cams pistons and those other big rebuild things are as you noticed not available.

The S6/8 and the R8/lambo share many parts in common but things like cams intake and some rotational things are different. If you put a R8 intake on a S6 its a dog because the cams are not meant for high rpm they are for low end tq and the high rev V10s are not.

 on: Today at 04:06:54 AM 
Started by jonathanholik - Last post by justincredible
Its possible but to be honest. Its more work to try and do it than it would be to just drop the motor.

 on: Today at 03:07:12 AM 
Started by jonathanholik - Last post by jonathanholik
Quick question ya'll
Is removing the heads possible without having to remove the whole engine from the car?
Ive gotta bad valve seat and would like to be able to take the head off myself to take it to a shop.
Id like to have them ported and polished. from the looks of it and how it is setup, ir doesnt look doable. but im sure and i really hope someone out there has found a way to do it.

 on: Yesterday at 07:31:07 PM 
Started by donk_316 - Last post by donk_316
After countless hours looking into this, i think i may pass on the Audi 5.2L V10.
Its theoretically exactly what i want but the aftermarket just isnt there (or for most Audi engines honestly)
I looked into going to the 4.2L V8 instead thinking that a V8 would have more of an aftermarket and didnt find much again.
I mean, spacer gaskets, tunes, light weight balancers and test pipes seems to be it. (headers for the 4 door S4 but not the S5?? come on) I want to stay NA also. For such a massive production run, which spans the entire world, there is sadly zero real aftermarket support which surprises me. I work in Europe so i have access to their market and no one seems to care here either.

I appreciate the M120 option and i had never considered it. Shockingly, no one cares about that engine either! Unless you go biturbo you can get huge power but then i lose the NA sound im going for.

My idea of aftermarket support is atleast some sort of rebuild kit, thinner head gaskets, cam regrinds or cams in general, aftermarket pistons (CP will make them for $3000 USD for V10) No one makes a proper aftermarket intake manifold either? Crazy.

So at this point, im slowly drifting to the LS market as a donor even though its literally cookie cutter stuff. There is no originality there and they sound like a typical V8.

Can someone give me the actual differences between the S6/S8 V10, the R8 V10 and the Lambo V10?

(Lambo V10 used intake manifold seems to go for around 4000-7000 USD...)

 on: December 10, 2018, 09:54:44 PM 
Started by jonathanholik - Last post by justincredible
Well depending on how long the car sat for the lifters could bleed down but that wouldn't stop the valve from shutting.

I woould pull the valve cover off and spin the motor over a few times looking at the valve travel and the springs on either side of the one in question. As the other guys mentioned sounds like you still have something hanging up.

If you pull out all of the plugs you should be able to spin the motor over quite easy.

 on: December 10, 2018, 01:52:00 PM 
Started by jonathanholik - Last post by Greg5OH
What eng92 is saying. Valve seats are not easy to bend. you surely did not do it unless you stuck a flatheadscrewdrive ron and beat on it with a hammer. Pistons slapping the head will do that (when a rod bearings gets chewed up and spit out). Most likely you have some carbon or plastic still wedged up against the seat.

 on: December 09, 2018, 09:06:02 PM 
Started by numbafieve - Last post by justincredible
I have a 2007 S6 with the v10 and it has had an oil leak for a while now.  Im finally getting around to fixing it since im doing an oil change anyway.  The problem is the oil pan gasket and i started going about replacing that but i cant for the life of me get it off.  The RTV is holding it on there too tightly.  I have tried prying it off, heat, a ton of different chemicals, and even a rubber mallet but none of them have worked.  I have been at it about 5 hours now trying to get it to come off. Any ideas?

In these cold temps your going to have a lot of things working against you. You said heat. That is going to be the key but you need to use a lot of it and I mean a lot. and its hard to really get the RTV to soften up and let go in these really cold temps.

You need to spend a good 1/2 an hour just on the heat alone. You need to really warm up the pan fron the side best you can and work it around the face. Warm up the 5 inches or so on either side of the best point to wedge in a flat head. It'll take a good 15 min of heat work also have a 5lb sledge and a 2x4. Use the 2x4 as a blunt buffer for the hammer pound that around on the corner as well. heat and slowly work the flat head in. Then slowly work in one direction sliding in another flathead. from there keep going until you can put in another and another and another. don't pry the pan just use the flat head to ever so slightly get the pan to separate working the wood and hammer against the side of the pan to help work it free.

 on: December 09, 2018, 12:36:24 PM 
Started by numbafieve - Last post by 2008 S6
I used a paint scraper. I tapped with a hammer until I got it started, then, once in, worked my way around the perimeter. I had no issued and didn't damage anything.

 on: December 08, 2018, 10:21:07 PM 
Started by Ape Factory - Last post by Ape Factory
Don't think I can embed a video on this forum but here's a DIY for oil changes on an RS5 using a Schwaben fluid extractor.  So easy this way.  Makes me want to change my oil every 3K.

 on: December 08, 2018, 06:33:29 PM 
Started by numbafieve - Last post by numbafieve
Audi gives you a recess between the upper and lower pans on the passenger side just behind the drain hole.

 My preferred method is to break the seal in the corner by tapping the blade of a utility knife in lightly with a hammer. Once you get it started then you can apply light pressure with the screwdriver to take the pressure off of the knife blade.  The blade can then be slid most of the way around in both directions.

The gasket is definitely tough. I had to use a rubber mallet and flathead to wedge my way in and around. I found the best entry was on the passenger side towards the front of the car. Once you get the flathead in, just work your way around.

As far as getting it back on, get some allthread from a local hardware store and cut into four or six 2" lengths to serve as guides (m6x1.0). Gasket the block, not the pan, and use the reinzosil (sp?) in a toothpaste tube, not the henkel/loctite stuff that's in a caulk gun like tube.

Thanks for the ideas but i did already try these and ended up gouging the block pretty bad.  I can only get to one of those pry slots though because the engine is still in the car, so all the hoses and such are in the way.  In the morning when its not 10 degrees im going to just take a sledgehammer to it and buy a new one if it punctures.  I have had it with this car and i just want to get it in sellable condition.

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